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Hi guys,

Im having a similar problem of pretty hefty vibration when going highway speeds which has only seem to have come on recently (bike is on 4000 miles).

Definitely nothing to do with my grip since it has happened after reading twist of the wrist which led me to completely reduce my grip strength.

I bought my bike used and it doesn't have bar ends which seems like it might be some of the problem (although doesn't explain the sudden onset).

Do you think weighted bar ends would do the trick and if so does anyone know the size I can't seem to find it anywhere? Was gonna go with 7/8

Thanks
 

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Hi guys,

Im having a similar problem of pretty hefty vibration when going highway speeds which has only seem to have come on recently (bike is on 4000 miles).

Definitely nothing to do with my grip since it has happened after reading twist of the wrist which led me to completely reduce my grip strength.

I bought my bike used and it doesn't have bar ends which seems like it might be some of the problem (although doesn't explain the sudden onset).

Do you think weighted bar ends would do the trick and if so does anyone know the size I can't seem to find it anywhere? Was gonna go with 7/8

Thanks
Since this issue recently showed up, I would suspect that your front wheel is out of balance. Are any of the wheel weights missing?

Bar end weights do make a difference in the amount of felt vibration.
 

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[long response, basically effects of tension etc
plus few hints on hand etc use in riding..
just scroll on bye :) ]

has this excessive vibration just started, or been there
since 2011 and during that 5000k ?

best check would be to ride other cbr250r's..

without doubt tho, the experience of vibration
will and must be effected by how you hold
or grip the bars.. if your muscles are tensed
then all sensors in muscle fibers/bundles, joints
and connective tissues will be sending more
info into your brain, ie, you will be more
aware of it because there is more of it
being generated by activated sensors..

gripping for any length of time will
cause recruitment of other muscles
in response to the gripping action
incl as lactic acid builds up due to
ongoing muscle activity..
ie, not only muscles of forearm
which move fingers will be active
but radiating muscle activity thru
shoulders, shoulder blades and into
chest and anciliary muscles of breathing,
will all be effected thru sustained gripping..

bottom line of this natural predictable sequence
of muscle tensioning includes influencing
breathing [or ease of it] and to some extent
potential for nice easy rhythmic heartbeat..

the more aware brain is of something
[thru sensors etc] the more it is felt..

one solution for predictable effects of holding
something for extended periods, esp gripping,
is to change position of fingers, palms, wrists,
arms, shoulders, neck etc, thus the muscles
operating their joints in movement..
this effectively rests the tense muscles..

softly moving fingers and shaking wrists [for eg]
can release tension buildup around those joints
and their muscles.. even just stretching fingers
outward still resting palms on bars will help..

sometimes i just lift both arms up
in a V shape for a yawn type stretch..

whatever you are doing tho, given normal
vibration etc, it is always much better
to not, grip the bars, as members note..
there is no need to grip the bars
in general road riding..

even hand braking can be reduced
by practicing engine braking..
smooth clutch control needs only
momentary short finger movement..

if youre not actually doing anything
you are at liberty to relax your hands
and just rest them on the grips..
throttle will still be under control..

in traffic awareness of relative position
and stopping distances etc can reduce
brake and clutch lever use..
ie, rest muscles doing that action..

by all means try out gel grips etc,
but aside from some external factor
causing excessive vibrations,
it does come down to managment
of joints and muscles in the task..
or 'how you ride the motorcycle'..

relaxed, not tense, is easiest
and most enjoyable..
 

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Since this issue recently showed up, I would suspect that your front wheel is out of balance. Are any of the wheel weights missing?

Bar end weights do make a difference in the amount of felt vibration.
Good suggestion, thanks. Just checked and there's one on each wheel, which is correct right?

I'll definitely get some OEM bar ends since I'm not sure why they were ever taken off. Still doesn't explain the sudden onset.

I figured that the front tire could be over inflated too but last time I checked it was correct.

Its not a huge deal, I mean at city speeds its totally fine and at highway speeds my hands aren't numb or anything just super tingly. Id love to figure out what changed for this to start happening recently though.
 

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Back in prehistoric times, when all motorcycles vibrated, handgrips were designed to reduce vibration. Take a look at the OEM grips n Norton commandos and other British twins. Then game engine balancers, bar snakes and bar end weights. OEM comfort grips are now a thing of the past.

I found the OEM Honda grips both too hard and too small a diameter. I bought a set of Cheap Chinese foam overgrips ($5) off Ebay. I like them because they are easier to get my large hands around, and they are soft and easy to grip. Much cheaper than aftermarket grips.

If a motorcycle comes with bar end weights from the manufacturer, you can be certain they are there for a reason. Manufacturers don't give anything away in a competitive market. Bar weights change the resonant frequency of the bars and thus reduce vibration. Years ago I changed the OEM bar weights on my Aprilia for a set by MAW (I think). These had a feature where one weight had a key lock and was removable. It acted as a helmet holder. Simply remove weight, slide D ring on the bar, then reinstall weight. It also would hold a riding jacket if you slid one arm on the bar before adding the helmet. Much more convenient than the semi-useless helmet holder on the CBR.
 

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Something to possibly consider concerning handlebar vibration.

Along with the bar end weight there is a larger internal bar weight
also. It is located into position with tabbed ring #3 and two rubber
star shaped cushions #4 then secured with the screw that goes
thru the end weight and into the end of the internal weight.

You said your bike has no end weights which would indicate that
the internal weight is not rigidly secured. Possibly over time the
internal weight has loosened and has started to vibrate.

Not saying that is what is happening but maybe it is something
to think about.

See the pic for the assembly illustration.
 

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Something to possibly consider concerning handlebar vibration.

Along with the bar end weight there is a larger internal bar weight
also. It is located into position with tabbed ring #3 and two rubber
star shaped cushions #4 then secured with the screw that goes
thru the end weight and into the end of the internal weight.

You said your bike has no end weights which would indicate that
the internal weight is not rigidly secured. Possibly over time the
internal weight has loosened and has started to vibrate.

Not saying that is what is happening but maybe it is something
to think about.

See the pic for the assembly illustration.
Yeah I noticed there was an internal bar weight when I looked up replacing the end weights. I think when I'm looking into the bar all I see is the end of number 5, the thing thats like a semi circle. So I guess I'm missing 4 and 3. Im definitely gonna just replace the bar ends when I can get to the dealer. I was pretty unsuccessful in trying to work out which non OEM bar ends would fit the bike…

Thanks
 

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Ok this is turning into a farce… I got the bar end weights and they actually made things worse! I now feel hefty vibrations that come on around 2.5 to 3.5 revs, especially when closing the throttle, and seem to go away at the higher end (opposite to before really). Its almost like an Xbox controller just rumbling at certain times.

Any ideas? One thing that might be worth mentioning is that one bar end is far from being flush, I mean its screwed in tight but theres a big gap between it and the bar. How would I adjust the internal weight position?

Also I've been putting off an engine oil change, could this be a factor just in creating general buzz?

Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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You purchased the bike used and it did not have bar ends on it
at that time. You don't know why they they had been removed.
You also don't know what else may have been done.

When you installed new factory bar ends they don't seat in the
proper position which would suggest that the internal bar weights
are no longer in the proper position. With vibrations still present
perhaps the internal cushion rings are missing.

Something obviously is wrong with the bar weight assembly and
should be disassembled and inspected. This can be done at home
but the shop manual is almost necessary for the proper procedure
sequence. The other choice is to take into a Honda dealer and have
them look at it.

It just seem like the original owner some how screwed it up and
couldn't even get the bar end weight back on so he took the other
bar end weight off to make it look the same.
 

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Yeah you're right its definitely fishy that they were off to begin with, and it looks like the internal weight could be out of place slightly. I took it to the dealer when I bought the new ends and they said that it looked like everything was there but the ends, although they didnt really inspect it much. I'll take it back and ask if they thing the position is off.

I just wondered if there was any way of moving the internal weight without disassembling everything.
 

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I wasn't thinking when you said there was a gap difference
at the bar ends. There is a larger gap on the throttle side.
I think it a safety thing so nothing would get in and bind
the throttle.

I took a couple of pics of my bar end/grip gap to compare
to yours. If your gap differences are similar then that is ok.
 

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I wasn't thinking when you said there was a gap difference
at the bar ends. There is a larger gap on the throttle side.
I think it a safety thing so nothing would get in and bind
the throttle.

I took a couple of pics of my bar end/grip gap to compare
to yours. If your gap differences are similar then that is ok.
My extra space is on the clutch side, perfect… Throttle one looks about right but the other one is at least twice that distance, maybe half a cm. I can add a picture if thats helpful

Thanks
 

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I wasn't thinking when you said there was a gap difference at the bar ends. There is a larger gap on the throttle side.
I think it a safety thing so nothing would get in and bind the throttle.
I think the gap is variable, and trivial, providing there is one on the throttle side. I added Helibars about a month ago. Part of the changeover is removing the bar weights from the OEM bars and reinstalling them in the Helibars. The gaps changed from before to after. There is a little play in the mounting mechanism of the weight inside the bar. Basically, a rectangular pin has to fit in a round hole. There is some slop of a few millimeters.

Before the change, I had zero (0), zed, nada, gap on the throttle. The bar end would rotate when I twisted the grip. This is not good. My CBR had less than 600 miles on it at the time, so I assume it came that way from the factory! I now have about a 2 mm gap on each side.
 

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I think the gap is variable, and trivial, providing there is one on the throttle side. I added Helibars about a month ago. Part of the changeover is removing the bar weights from the OEM bars and reinstalling them in the Helibars. The gaps changed from before to after. There is a little play in the mounting mechanism of the weight inside the bar. Basically, a rectangular pin has to fit in a round hole. There is some slop of a few millimeters.

Before the change, I had zero (0), zed, nada, gap on the throttle. The bar end would rotate when I twisted the grip. This is not good. My CBR had less than 600 miles on it at the time, so I assume it came that way from the factory! I now have about a 2 mm gap on each side.
I am a little confused as to whom your post is directed to.
If it was to me, I have no problem with my bar end gaps.
My pics were only to show Clarko21 what acceptable gaps
might look like.

Take a look at Clarko21's picture and (seriously) tell me that
it looks ok. That is a huge gap and something should be done
about it.

Perhaps a little assistance for him would more fitting and I
don't think switching to a complete set of aftermarket bars
is in order.
 

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I am a little confused as to whom your post is directed to.
If it was to me, I have no problem with my bar end gaps.
My pics were only to show Clarko21 what acceptable gaps
might look like.

Take a look at Clarko21's picture and (seriously) tell me that
it looks ok. That is a huge gap and something should be done
about it.

Perhaps a little assistance for him would more fitting and I
don't think switching to a complete set of aftermarket bars
is in order.
Yeah I've been looking at the ends of every bike I come across and mine is definitely the only one with such big gap. Im thinking that the internal weight is not screwed in entirely. Is there a way of adjusting it without taking the bar apart?

Thanks
 

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Hey Clarko21 I'm back again.
Lets go thru all the bar weight parts, where they are
and what they do. There are only 6 parts plus the
handle bar grip itself. I don't want to bore you but lets
get started.

On the handle bar there 2 holes 1 locates the position of
the lever control housing and the one near the end locates
the inner bar weight assembly. Neither one is adjustable
other than a little wiggle room.

The inner bar weight has two rubber (star shaped) cushion
rings that center the bar weight within the handle bar and
helps absorb the vibration. The last inner part is the snap ring
that hooks on the inner weight shaft, has a tab that snaps into
the hole in the handle bar, and 2 flanges that butt against the
end of the handle bar. The double pic shows the snap ring itself
and the red arrows the basic location where the handlebar hole
is and one of the flange tabs that contacts the end of the handle
bar end.

Now (hopefully) comes the easy part.

Take your bar end weight off and compare the pic with the red
arrows to see if everything looks the same (flange against bar
end) and the handle bar grip extending past the (bar end).
Put the bar end weight in and make sure the flats align. It
could be as simple as that (the grip was installed too far in
or the flats were not seated together).

When screwing the end weight on you must make sure the flats
are aligned and hold the end weight as tight as you can because
there is nothing to prevent the inner weight from turning.

If this doesn't do it, I think you should run it by the dealership
and let them take a look.

Good Luck
 

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Hey Clarko21 I'm back again.
Lets go thru all the bar weight parts, where they are
and what they do. There are only 6 parts plus the
handle bar grip itself. I don't want to bore you but lets
get started.

On the handle bar there 2 holes 1 locates the position of
the lever control housing and the one near the end locates
the inner bar weight assembly. Neither one is adjustable
other than a little wiggle room.

The inner bar weight has two rubber (star shaped) cushion
rings that center the bar weight within the handle bar and
helps absorb the vibration. The last inner part is the snap ring
that hooks on the inner weight shaft, has a tab that snaps into
the hole in the handle bar, and 2 flanges that butt against the
end of the handle bar. The double pic shows the snap ring itself
and the red arrows the basic location where the handlebar hole
is and one of the flange tabs that contacts the end of the handle
bar end.

Now (hopefully) comes the easy part.

Take your bar end weight off and compare the pic with the red
arrows to see if everything looks the same (flange against bar
end) and the handle bar grip extending past the (bar end).
Put the bar end weight in and make sure the flats align. It
could be as simple as that (the grip was installed too far in
or the flats were not seated together).

When screwing the end weight on you must make sure the flats
are aligned and hold the end weight as tight as you can because
there is nothing to prevent the inner weight from turning.

If this doesn't do it, I think you should run it by the dealership
and let them take a look.

Good Luck
Thanks very much for your detailed reply. I have just checked and it looks as if the flange is correctly clipped onto the weight, however the internal weight to me looks like it is extending too far out. As you can see the flange is directly in line with the end of the grip, rather than being slightly inside the grip. The last photo shows mw holding the weight in alignment with the ring snap, showing that in the correct position its still jutting out of the bar. I will definitely run by the dealers tomorrow though.

Thanks
 

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