[fieldeffect]

What chain do we use for the cbr250r? i need to get a new. I know its o-ring type, but what is the number of links? Its probably in the owners manual, not sure. But im drinking a beer and am too lazy to get up . Plus there is no ******************** information about the chain type online. Also the dealer wants $150 to change the chain. id rather just do it myself and save like 80 bucks.

 

[MotoMike]

Size is 520 - 108 links.

 

[fieldeffect]

thank you sir

 

[Jmia18]

How may miles did you get out of the old chain? Does it need replaced because of use or was it damaged?

 

[shodown220]

I also need a new chain i believe. I'm pretty sure i have a seized up link, the bike is having some vibrations and noises from the chain area. If I lift the rear tire and spin it the wheel spins freely and then gets hung up in one spot. I would rather not pay honda to diagnose this as i believe the chain is my problem. Anyways, anywhere else to get a chain from besides the dealer? Should i attempt to change it myself or have it profesionally done?

Any help would be great

 

[MotoMike]

I also need a new chain i believe. I'm pretty sure i have a seized up link, the bike is having some vibrations and noises from the chain area. If I lift the rear tire and spin it the wheel spins freely and then gets hung up in one spot. I would rather not pay honda to diagnose this as i believe the chain is my problem. Anyways, anywhere else to get a chain from besides the dealer? Should i attempt to change it myself or have it profesionally done?

Any help would be great

Here is Aufitt's step by step pics on installing a new drive chain. It's on page two of this thread: http://www.cbr250.net/forum/cbr250-service-maintenance/5847-changing-front-sprocket-2.html

You can order a chain from one of the online Honda dealers... powersportsplus.com has the OEM drive chain for less than $50.00 USD.

 

[fieldeffect]

mine is still fine, i still have room to adjust it, but lately its been outside so it is kind of rusty. stock chain and stock rear tire so far have 13,000 miles. crazy as i have been Canyon running alot. the rear tire is gone though, i am rpelacing it this week.

 

[MotoMike]

mine is still fine, i still have room to adjust it, but lately its been outside so it is kind of rusty. stock chain and stock rear tire so far have 13,000 miles. crazy as i have been Canyon running alot. the rear tire is gone though, i am rpelacing it this week.

That's pretty good mileage out of the stock rear tire... I've got 6000 miles on mine so far, I think I'll be lucky to get 8500 - 9000 from the original IRC's. The front tire is starting to cup.

 

[Cracker7]

Have you guys checked out if you can get an X-ring chain instead of an O-ring chain? In my experience they are better. Last longer, seal better so they stay cleaner an don't need as much attention. Only bad thing is they cost more. But to me it's worth it.

 

[lenbrinke]

chain neglection is rampant on bikes that are ppl's first rides.
i seen a brandnew gsr600 the other day with a chain so badly
rusted i couldnt believe how it looked,the young guy on it
probably dosent relize it needs attention/inspected once in awhile.

i soak my chain once every 500-600 miles and
spray a general wd40 type spray on it after a few rides if needed-
just to keep the grime and the possibility of surface rust down to 0%.
my bike has over 6000 miles with no chain adjustment yet.

 

[arunkumar]

so which chain did you buy finally..

 

[Matao87]

I hate to be that guy who resurrects an old thread, but I want to make sure I'm buying the right thing.
Any reason this chain won't work? Any recommendations otherwise?
Amazon.com: RK Racing Chain 520-SO-108 108-Links O-Ring Chain with Connecting Link: Automotive=

Also, Are these the correct sprockets? Amazon says so, but I want to be sure.

I'll be attempting my first big maintenance job (other than oil and brake fluid and coolant) at about 15,000 miles. Friendly advice is welcomed.

 

[MotoMike]

I hate to be that guy who resurrects an old thread, but I want to make sure I'm buying the right thing.
Any reason this chain won't work? Any recommendations otherwise?
Amazon.com: RK Racing Chain 520-SO-108 108-Links O-Ring Chain with Connecting Link: Automotive=

Also, Are these the correct sprockets? Amazon says so, but I want to be sure.
Sunstar 2-351538 Silver 38-Teeth Standard Steel Rear Sprocket for Chain Size 520 : Amazon.com : Automotive
Amazon.com: Sunstar 36114 Black 14 Teeth 520 Chain Countershaft Sprocket: Automotive

I'll be attempting my first big maintenance job (other than oil and brake fluid and coolant) at about 15,000 miles. Friendly advice is welcomed.

Yes, those sprockets & chain are the correct sizes & fitment. Follow Aufitt's thread, Changing The Front Sprocket for a really good installation procedure and tips.

BTW, that's a good price for the rear Sunstar sprocket on Amazon... about half the cost of the OEM Honda rear sprocket. I couldn't open the Amazon link for the chain, but I think it is the same chain I bought last spring for my Honda XR400R. It was about $50. RK is one of the top name brands in motorcycle drive chains.

 

[Matao87]

Thanks a lot, Mike that's exactly what I needed to know!

One more thing, I've got a chain breaker, what tool will I need for the master link included with RK O-ring chain?

 

[jsonder]

A needle nose pliers will help you snap the clip on. You are pushing the clip parallel to the chain, with the pliers tips on the roller that the link plate allows through (the front hole; front in the chain motion sense) and the clip, with your other hand keeping the clip against the rear roller.

 

[MotoMike]

Thanks a lot, Mike that's exactly what I needed to know!

One more thing, I've got a chain breaker, what tool will I need for the master link included with RK O-ring chain?

Some types of chain tools (typically the more expensive ones), besides being made to break chain links, are made to press the master link together as well. Many of those units will spin the rivet pins as well on rivet style master links. RK makes a nice "do it all" chain tool... about $100 USD on Amazon: Amazon.com: RK UCT 4060 Universal Chain Breaker, Cutter, Press-Fit and Rivet Tool Kit: Automotive

If you are careful, you can use a vise-grip to press the side plate onto the master link plates... just need to make sure you don't bend the side plate in the process. As jsonder said, then use a needle nose pliers to install the spring clip.

 

[jsonder]

I made a "compresser" by drilling out the holes on two old chain plates. You set them on top of the plate that goes under the clip and compress them with a pair of C-clamps. I wind up tightening the clamps a couple of times every 5 minutes, followed by removing the clamps and the two extra plates before attaching the clip. With 2 plates, you can compress right over the roller pins.

 

[MotoMike]

I made a "compresser" by drilling out the holes on two old chain plates. You set them on top of the plate that goes under the clip and compress them with a pair of C-clamps. I wind up tightening the clamps a couple of times every 5 minutes, followed by removing the clamps and the two extra plates before attaching the clip. With 2 plates, you can compress right over the roller pins.

Ingenious idea, John.

 

[shisoshin]

aside from initial period of checking and fiddling etc
mine also no adjustment in about 8000km despite checking..
it gets an occasional clean with kero and brush then lube [silkolene]..
she lives on the street, in sight of pacific ocean, gets fresh sea air
up our street with no chain rust..

re; 'seized link' question - before junking the chain, make sure you give it
a good clean [at least soak it with wd40] and lube, let that 'sink in'
then give the link youve identified a good working over..

work them up and down by hand as if something stuck in there
and your trying to work it out.. if it/they resist strong working try
tapping [downward] on suspect link/s as they come away from
the rear sprocket, with a rubber or wooden mallet or suchlike..

its only a chain, exposed to the elements etc, and things can
get in between links and plates.. who knows..
also, keep a good eye on the sprocket teeth for wear,
which is obvious to the eye compared to chain wear..
worn sprocket teeth mean chain wear or imminent death..
plenty of pics/images here and inet for worn sprockets..

 

[jsonder]

And, the drive sprocket (the small one that is hidden) is normally the one that needs replacing first. Get in the habit of removing the cover over the sprocket when cleaning the chain. It makes visual examination much easier and you can remove any accumulated debris.