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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
i used this part
McMaster-Carr

i just got 1 and cut it in half and good for both sides
As long as it is a very close fit I would say that is an excellent choice,and cheap.
What ever is used just be wary of any knocking noise from shock area,indicating excessive play which will cause the bushing to be hammered out in short time.
 

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I ordered my sleeve from McM-C at 6:30 last evening and it just arrived!!!

I was able to push it into one side with my fingers, but it stopped and is too tight to pull out with my fingers.

My first thoughts were to use something like red locktite on final assembly, but I doubt that stuff is designed for the kind of impact forces this would see.

2-part epoxy? I know the vast majority is going to be pushed out, but there would be a small film to fill in the gaps and solidify things.

I am very impressed with this sleeve. Thank you again, magnus718.
 

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I certainly would NOT do it.
I wouldn't do nylon either.Modern mountain bikes don't even use nylon anywhere in their suspension linkage that I'm aware of.
There is a reason the O.E. part uses a hardened steel sleeve.
The OEM shock has a steel mount for budget reasons. The R6 shock has a CNC-machined aluminum mount to save weight and still provide acceptable strength. I continue to believe that the nylon has acceptable strength the task since the spacer is basically just there to center the bolt in the mount; it's the clamping force of the bolt flange and nut on the sides of the shock mount that is going to actually hold most of the load, and it would do that nearly as well with no spacer at all. The main difference as I see it is that, should the bolt begin to back itself out, the lack of additional reinforcement from the spacer would help it wiggle out faster. Of course, had I known about the mcmaster carr part above-referenced, I certainly would have used that instead of nylon.

My first thoughts were to use something like red locktite on final assembly, but I doubt that stuff is designed for the kind of impact forces this would see.

2-part epoxy? I know the vast majority is going to be pushed out, but there would be a small film to fill in the gaps and solidify things.
You are waaaaaaaaay overthinking this. If you need the peace of mind then JB-Weld the sonuvabitch in already and git-r-done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
8mm on my 2011 bike.What year is your bike jam?
 

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8mm on my 2011 bike.what year is your bike jam?
2012. I want to put a bushing in the bottom shock mount holes which are 12mm to 10mm so I can install a different bikes adjustable shock which happens to be 12x55, compared to the CBR250R's 10x55. You probably know this area of the bike better, have I got the wrong idea? All the CBR250R's shock mounting bolts are 10mm 10.9, while the replacement shock's mounting bolts are 12mm 10.9
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
The upper pin mounts were of different diameters(10 and 12mm.)but I just swapped the CBR one onto the R6 shock.



The lower mounts had different size holes.The CBR 8mm. and the R6 10mm.The bolt that goes though this hole also goes through a hardened sleeve that is also an inner bearing race for part of the suspension linkage.So the sleeve cannot be drilled out to accept a 10mm. bolt.So I sleeved the R6 shock holes down to 8mm.
I stand corrected!!!
My bike is not 8mm it is 10mm.
That means that I sleeved it from 12mm to 10mm
NOT 10mm to 8mm
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
I have heard that some of you have had to remove material from the lower shock mounting to get it to fit over the CBR suspension link.This *may* be different between ABS qnd non-ABS.My bike is ABS equiped and measures 30.0mm inside the lower shock clevis.It was a very snug fit onto the CBR link bit no machining required.

Please post if yours is different.
 

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Does anybody have a guide to ABS no cut, shock install?

Can I just use washers is on the shock to make the shock mounting points 6 mm further apart? Will that give full clearance?

Should I get anything else besides the bushing from McMaster Carr?

THANKS!
 

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I put the r6 shock in my ABS cbr. You can lower the top shock mount to clear the rear frame but it will make the bike more unstable It may interfere with the abs motor box more as well. I had to pry the box out of the way fairly aggressively to get it to clear the shock. I also put racetech emulators and springs up front. The ride is VERY stiff compared to stock and I have the rear shock set to a 1/4 of its limits. I personally really like it but some may not. The metal to be removed is "easy" to do with glasses and a dremel tool and about 5-10 wheels. Cut an arch the shape of the top of the shock housing. You can get to the frame from under the bike and you will cut the rear portion only.
 

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I put the r6 shock in my ABS cbr. You can lower the top shock mount to clear the rear frame but it will make the bike more unstable It may interfere with the abs motor box more as well. I had to pry the box out of the way fairly aggressively to get it to clear the shock. I also put racetech emulators and springs up front. The ride is VERY stiff compared to stock and I have the rear shock set to a 1/4 of its limits. I personally really like it but some may not. The metal to be removed is "easy" to do with glasses and a dremel tool and about 5-10 wheels. Cut an arch the shape of the top of the shock housing. You can get to the frame from under the bike and you will cut the rear portion only.
Did you try it both ways? Or did you just grind?
 

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I just used a grinder. Another downside to this is the bike sits lower. Makes it easier to fall over from on the kickstand.
Why didn't you add washers so that the shock links is the same? Being shorter schock and with extra travel, I wonder if you can lose the entire clearance you're supposed to have?

That would really suck.

Without spacers the shock is 13 mm shorter using the original post measurements. I'm not sure how much closer that gets the rear tire to the frame, but Having the rear tire suddenly stop would never be a good thing.
 
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