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Our 08-12 R6 shock came in from an Ebay seller; it was in excellent shape on the outside with surprisingly no rock chip damage, seals looked good and the hardware was all there. We took that and my R1 Shock in for an oil change / rebuild last weekend; neither shock needed a rebuild and the Poway Boys (Poway Motorcycles) remarked at how clean the oil came out of both.

We installed it with minimal modifications to the stock components and shock using a stack of shims, the stock R6 Clevis upper mount by enlarging the upper mounting hole to 12mm (we did this mainly because the stock R6 mount had a much longer bolt allowing for more shims and we didn’t feel like altering the stock Honda mount to accept a longer 10mm bolt), filing open the lower mount 1mm on each side to accept the stock bearing, and filing the back edge of the lower mount in order to allow the full extension of the shimmed shock without hitting.

The combination of the shims and the filing lifted the rear about 25mm over stock putting it's butt in the air and allowing it to ride the front a bit more. This added ride height in the rear will also help to adjust over all ride height for added ground clearance at the track where dragging hard parts and toe sliders is always an issue even with raised stock rear sets with ZX10 foot pegs and me hanging off holding the bike up like a f’king monkey. (more on how this effected the rake later)

With the shock mounted, race tech springs and emulators installed and Erika as the test pilot (it's her bike, daily rider and now track weapon) it was time for a short shake down ride on some San Diego twistiest roads. She immediately remarked at how well it was riding saying that it feels like a completely new bike! It was then that I noticed the very negative side effect of improved handling – your wife can keep up shortening the time that I would have to wait for her at the end of fun road segments…. This was my time to catch my breath, F’k!! Over all she was very happy with her trusty steed’s new found super powers and now it was time to take it to the track.

3 days at Chuckwalla…
Day one – we agreed on no changes just ride it with the stock R6, emulator and sag settings set for her only I would deal with bottom out and chatter if I chose to ride it that fast (we share the 250 at the track because it saves on EVERYTHING!!). Rebound didn’t match front to rear and compression looked close so we went out and gave it a shake down. I immediately felt the difference with the front sucking up bumps while giving me the confidence to march my turn-in/Roll off points in (brake points on bigger bikes, turn-in/roll off points at Chuckwalla on a 250). Tire wear on our new S20s (28/28 cold psi) looked good and consistent with me using more lean angle do to carrying more speed with lower track times. By the afternoon we both PRed with Erika in the Upper 20’s and me in the mid-teens.

Day two – Emulator adjustment to match the rear compression and rebound – Immediate difference and Erika was off her game but easily PRed in the mid 20’s with improved lines and deeper turn-in she was actually pulling people in the Bowl and through the 4-5-6 combo. I continued to PR and worked on consistency passing liter bike after liter bike when they weren’t able to motor me and when they did I was usually passing them at the entry to the next corner.

Day Three – No setting changes. Just Ride it! Since we had forgotten our custom front preload spacers we decided not to make any further changes; Erika was going to ride it all day with me working turn 11 for a ½ day (morning) then bike hopping the rest of the afternoon. Bike hopping allowed me to give her a tow through some of the areas where she was losing time and follow her through some of the areas where I just couldn’t keep up on an R6 that wasn’t mine. After showing her the ballsiest line through 11-12-and into the bowl and following her through it we ran out of time….

Totals:
Fuel consumed – 13 Gallons
Miles this weekend – 571
MPG – 43.9
Miles on bike – 44k
Tires boogered up but nowhere near the wear bars

Bike back in street form at 0700 so she can ride in to work.

Pics to follow after i shrink them
 

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I asked my preferred suspension guru Jamie Daugherty about shock options and mentioned this swap he said "Probably a different shock would be a better choice anyway, those Soqi shocks are not very good units."
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
doesn't it seem a lot easier to find some steel tube with 10mm and drill the R6 clevis to match the OD of that tubing???:cool:
It's not the clevis that is the problem,it's the link that goes inside the clevis.As mentioned,you cannot easily drill the inner race of a bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
I asked my preferred suspension guru Jamie Daugherty about shock options and mentioned this swap he said "Probably a different shock would be a better choice anyway, those Soqi shocks are not very good units."
I'm sure that there are better shocks out there....but for less than $100 ?
Please let me know what else you find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Without spacers the shock is 13 mm shorter using the original post measurements. I'm not sure how much closer that gets the rear tire to the frame, but Having the rear tire suddenly stop would never be a good thing.
This is why I originally had the spring removed, to check tire clearance when the shock is fully compressed. All was good.
 
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Thank you to powertoweight and Thasiet and all others for this and all the other great improvement posts. Yesterday I spent about 6 hours installing my R6 shock ($45 ebay like new), and changing oil (Rotella T5 10W30) and filter and adding mid pipe baffle and a db killer to my Growler exhaust (still light and loud but not half as obnoxious as it was). My 2012 Black CBR is non-ABS so I went with the no frame cutting method, longer top bolt and lock nut and washer stack, steel 10mm-12mm bushings... A lot of work removing tank and airbox. Lots of air die grinder, bench grinder, and file work. front and rear axle stands and motorcycle jack under belly helped too. Big job but after a cold test ride on cindered PA Roads today, it was all worth it. Cant wait till spring to push it hard on the twisties. 2nd best mod yet. 2nd only to the front fork springs and emulators.. btw I'm about 230lbs. and preload setting 4, and all other standard middle R6 setting feel good so far. Other previous mods include, saddleman tech seat, zero gravity touring screen, Bestem top case on givi rack, adjustable levers, some black powdercoated brackets, foam grip covers, led lights, hot body fender eliminator with home made signal bracket.. Great bike...
 

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Hey guys! I know this is an old thread but I am looking to put an R6 shock in and I just want to make sure I am buying one that will work. It says its from the 08-14 and all the shapes look right but I just want to make sure! 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 Yamaha R6R Rear Shock | eBay
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
I'm glad that someone bumped this back to life because it made such an improvement to my bike :)
As stated in my original post,use 2008-2012 R6 shock.
Not sure if the R6R is the same.
 

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Not sure if the R6R is the same.
I just looked it up and the R6R is just any r6 model from 2008 and up. Once I get Paypal to cooperate I will dropping the money on one and putting it in during the winter along with a racetech frontend :grin2: I already can't wait for the spring so I can do a trackday with the new goodies!
 

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Does anyone that has done the shimming version on a non ABS version find what distance we need to make sure the shock wont bind at the top of the travel?
 

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I bought a 0-mile 2015 R6 shock (2008+ should all be the same), and I purchased new OEM parts for the top mount. After putting the top mount onto the R6 shock and eyeballing it and taking measurements, it looks like I may run into the same problem as don'tpanic in his R6 shock thread. The stock bolt head on the top mount is 4mm thick, and it allows for a decent range of movement on the R6 shock, but all the M12x1.25 bolts that I see online have 7.5mm heads, which I believe will be a problem. Has anybody else come across this? No one, except for don'tpanic, has mentioned this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
You could just do it my way(use the Honda upper shock mount)...but you'd have to grind away some of the frame.
 

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I bought a 0-mile 2015 R6 shock (2008+ should all be the same), and I purchased new OEM parts for the top mount. After putting the top mount onto the R6 shock and eyeballing it and taking measurements, it looks like I may run into the same problem as don'tpanic in his R6 shock thread. The stock bolt head on the top mount is 4mm thick, and it allows for a decent range of movement on the R6 shock, but all the M12x1.25 bolts that I see online have 7.5mm heads, which I believe will be a problem. Has anybody else come across this? No one, except for don'tpanic, has mentioned this.
I just finished putting in my R6 shock and I bought a M12-1.75(only thread pitchsa I could get a Home Depot) and a nylock nut to go with it. The head of the bolt was too big but I just used my dremel to grind away enough to make it fit. :grin2:
 

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I just finished putting in my R6 shock and I bought a M12-1.75(only thread pitchsa I could get a Home Depot) and a nylock nut to go with it. The head of the bolt was too big but I just used my dremel to grind away enough to make it fit. :grin2:
This is what I ended up doing. Bought a M12x1.25 (45mm) hex bolt, a hex nut, and some fender washers from boltdepot.com. The bolt head was 7.5mm, so I ground it down to 4.7mm with my new dremel (first time using one, and it's a nice tool!). After that, it fit just fine and allowed for a lot of room for the mount to pivot.

What modifications did you have to do to the lower mount? Seems like everybody who has done it on this thread does it a little differently.
 

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What modifications did you have to do to the lower mount? Seems like everybody who has done it on this thread does it a little differently.
I used a bench grinder to shave off some width of the metal sleeve that goes through the linkage. Its hardened steel so it takes a lot to get through it but you don't have to take to much off. And as for the sleeves that go into the shock, I just used some aluminum tube. I drilled out the center to 10mm and then cut off a ~3 inch section. I put that into a drill and then used sand paper to sand down the outside. It took quite a while to get the right OD but I think it is a good method if you can't get anything else to fit.
 
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