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Discussion Starter #1
Installing the Yoshi kit and not really wanting to cut the stock wires for the license light. Any way around this? not really a pro, as this is my first go at doing anything of this sort. The other issue I am having is how to run the electrical... it was under the fender stock, and I am guessing I need to relocate it up in front of the tail light. If anybody has any tips or photos of the electrical it would be appreciated. The directions totally ignore the electrical aspect of this install. I am guessing I need to also remove the black plastic cup that goes over the connectors as room seems to be an issue with it on still.

Basically I am at the reassembly part right now. Everything is off.
 

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They have bullit connector so you dont need to cut anything.

The rest of you post was bad English and not really readable, so I have no idea what your asking
 

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here's a post from another theead that might help - i installed it on my bike. As you noted, there are no plugs - the instructions tell you to cut the wires. Go to a auto or marine parts store and you can find barrel connectors to crimp onto the Yoshi wires - they're a bit bigger than the stock honda, but will work. Alternately, you could find a totaled bike at a junkyard and slice a couple of connectors off with a few inches of wire so that you could crimp them to the fender eliminator.

Here's the sliced and diced post. Search for "fender eliminator" to find more

Installed the Yoshi fender eliminator kit tonight. Wasn't impressed with the fact that your license plate is now a structural component (the signals bolt to it), but the only thing that really made me incredulous was the fact that a $120 fender eliminator wants you to cut the connectors off the license plate light. They include crimp connectors for you to splice the wires, why not just include the barrel connectors? By the way, you can buy them from West Marine (and other places - they're a bit larger than the OEM but will work fine.

Things to do to save time:

  • If your wiring harness is on the tire side of the tail section (mine was), it must be moved to the top and placed forward of the taillight. This is easy to do once the tail section is removed. Tie wrap it down to keep it from straying near the seat latch.
  • Once you bolt on the new plate bracket and mount your signal lights to the two L-shaped brackets, route both of the signal cables into the small hole just forward of the LED plate light, up into the tail section before reconnecting.
  • Reassemble the tail section before mounting your plate. Mounting the plate first will keep you from accessing the two screws under the tail that hold the bottom of the tail light. Just let the signals hang.
  • The undertail plate wants you to use the two bolts that go up into the tail section and secure the seat latch. This is not well thought out... These are shoulder bolts that secure the latch as well as the inner fender liner. Crushing the liner between the two plates is likely to crack it. I solved this by drilling holes to match the holes where the pins retained the original liner and inserting a couple of 10-32 bolts with nylock nuts.

I think it looks much better than the original tail section, but I would have been happy to pay a few dollars more to have a bit more thought put into the design. Actually, the design sucks - it's not representative of the quality I would expect from Yoshimura. I was going to buy their exhaust system, but the Fender Eliminator experience (the kludged design, lack of parts, and essentially unusable instructions) cured me of that notion.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
They have bullit connector so you dont need to cut anything.

The rest of you post was bad English and not really readable, so I have no idea what your asking
really what part? I am sayng that stock, it comes with the electrical under the fender... It has a plastic cup over the connectors that takes up a ton of room if i have to relocate the electrical in front of the light now... pretty clear to me though what I am asking. As for the bullit connectors, the yoshi light i need to connect has no connector. the ones at the autoparts store do not fit the stock one. The directions call for cutting a 6 inch lenght of wire from the stock fender to connect it using the stock connectors. 6 inches is all the way to the actual light. I want to keep the stock fender in tact in case I ever want to switch back to it. No clue why they did not just install stock connectors to the wires on the yoshi kit... that would have been great.

Thanks Luke, that was a big help... I read that thread prior to the install, but I must have forgotten it.
 

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standard bullet connectors should fit the stock ones.

Did you try them, were they too tight or loose?

I got the electrical connections to fit under / half in front of the light with the R&G racing fender kit. Its not too hard a job.

Best thing to do is use a few zip ties to hold it all down if there is no new bracket in the yoshi kit to hold the light where the stock fender bracket did.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got it installed now. I ended up cutting the stock wires like it says. Was trying to avoid that, but no place around had connectors that would fit, the male parts were all too big to fit the stock female parts. tried 3 auto parts places and radio shack. I need to still tidy things up with zip ties though. Thanks for the picture. all in all the install was not too bad, just a took me longer because i did not want to break anything or mess anything up, and I did lol. While trying to take off the stock tail light, something that holds the side piece to the tail light assemble cracked and does not fit snug up against it now. it is nothing big, it isnt going anywhere.
 
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