here's a post from another theead that might help - i installed it on my bike. As you noted, there are no plugs - the instructions tell you to cut the wires. Go to a auto or marine parts store and you can find barrel connectors to crimp onto the Yoshi wires - they're a bit bigger than the stock honda, but will work. Alternately, you could find a totaled bike at a junkyard and slice a couple of connectors off with a few inches of wire so that you could crimp them to the fender eliminator.
Here's the sliced and diced post. Search for "fender eliminator" to find more
Installed the Yoshi fender eliminator kit tonight. Wasn't impressed with the fact that your license plate is now a structural component (the signals bolt to it), but the only thing that really made me incredulous was the fact that a $120 fender eliminator wants you to cut the connectors off the license plate light. They include crimp connectors for you to splice the wires, why not just include the barrel connectors? By the way, you can buy them from West Marine (and other places - they're a bit larger than the OEM but will work fine.
Things to do to save time:
- If your wiring harness is on the tire side of the tail section (mine was), it must be moved to the top and placed forward of the taillight. This is easy to do once the tail section is removed. Tie wrap it down to keep it from straying near the seat latch.
- Once you bolt on the new plate bracket and mount your signal lights to the two L-shaped brackets, route both of the signal cables into the small hole just forward of the LED plate light, up into the tail section before reconnecting.
- Reassemble the tail section before mounting your plate. Mounting the plate first will keep you from accessing the two screws under the tail that hold the bottom of the tail light. Just let the signals hang.
- The undertail plate wants you to use the two bolts that go up into the tail section and secure the seat latch. This is not well thought out... These are shoulder bolts that secure the latch as well as the inner fender liner. Crushing the liner between the two plates is likely to crack it. I solved this by drilling holes to match the holes where the pins retained the original liner and inserting a couple of 10-32 bolts with nylock nuts.
I think it looks much better than the original tail section,
but I would have been happy to pay a few dollars more to have a bit more thought put into the design. Actually, the design sucks - it's not representative of the quality I would expect from Yoshimura. I was going to buy their exhaust system, but the Fender Eliminator experience (the kludged design, lack of parts, and essentially unusable instructions) cured me of that notion.