[slickshawn]

Just put on the fender eliminator from yoshimura. Looks great however it was a real pain in the ass. The directions must have been written by a three year old. They were vague and left you wondering if you were doing it right. I must also say that when you pay 120 bucks for a kit that didn't cost them 20 bucks to make you should get better than photo coppied instructions in which you can't even see the pictures. Also the led light it comes with looks like it came from a gum ball machine and provides only a speck of light. I am not impressed With my first purchase from yoshimura.

 

[Brian]

Mine was not my first purchase, but I was not impressed. the instructions are typical translation problems. My instructions were fairly clear, as in I dont think it looked photo copied. But the led light was underwhelming, a tehnicality at best. You ccan tell the officer 'I do too have a light on the plate.'
I can clearly see there was design time involved. But it does not seem complete. The sheetmetal work was really nice, why not bend a bracket for the two large grommets? I just wonder if the engineering gets cut short to keep cost down? Maybe people that buy a 4,000 dollar bike wont pay for a proper accessory.

 

[Luke]

I wasn't impressed either.... Kind of understand the bracket for the signals, since some of the "rad" riders will opt to (illegally) remove the turn signals, but it could have been done better. The real head-shaker was that Yoshi wants you to cut the connectors off your wiring harness - that's chickens**t - c'mon guys, pop the extra $0.25 and throw in the male barrel crimp connectors!

My experience with the install (agree 100% on the crappy instructions) changed my mind about buying anything else with Yoshimura stamped on it.

 

[Jeff]

Really sorry to be hearing this. Yosh made a super high quality exhaust for our bikes... just beautiful and extremely well made. This product must have been a real afterthought. I would definitely have bought it next too. Thanks for the heads up!

Anyone found a tail cleanup kit that they like?

 

[Macca]

Look at my thread for the R&G racing one

 

[killstrelok]

Yep I bought the R&G version simple and easy to install, LED is almost to bright can even tell it's on during the day. Just for the record, the Yoshi frame sliders are excellent, no cut easy to install(torque wrench helps) and will pay for themselves the first time you drop the bike(from personal experience).

 

[Sluggoserver]

Crap. I ordered the Yoshi fender eliminator a week ago.

 

[strongmaterial]

Can you please post a link to the R&G one.

Thanks.

 

[Luke]

Macca's thread: http://www.cbr250.net/forum/cbr250-parts-accessories/880-r-g-racing-tail-tidy-fender-eliminator.html

 

[Luke]

Sluggo - here's a post I put in another thread that will make your life easier:

Installed the Yoshi fender eliminator kit tonight. Wasn't impressed with the fact that your license plate is now a structural component (the signals bolt to it), but the only thing that really made me incredulous was the fact that a $120 fender eliminator wants you to cut the connectors off the license plate light. They include crimp connectors for you to splice the wires, why not just include the barrel connectors? By the way, you can buy them from West Marine (and other places - they're a bit larger than the OEM but will work fine.

Things to do to save time:

• If your wiring harness is on the tire side of the tail section (mine was), it must be moved to the top and placed forward of the taillight. This is easy to do once the tail section is removed. Tie wrap it down to keep it from straying near the seat latch.
• Once you bolt on the new plate bracket and mount your signal lights to the two L-shaped brackets, route both of the signal cables into the small hole just forward of the LED plate light, up into the tail section before reconnecting.
• Reassemble the tail section before mounting your plate. Mounting the plate first will keep you from accessing the two screws under the tail that hold the bottom of the tail light. Just let the signals hang.
• The undertail plate wants you to use the two bolts that go up into the tail section and secure the seat latch. This is not well thought out... These are shoulder bolts that secure the latch as well as the inner fender liner. Crushing the liner between the two plates is likely to crack it. I solved this by drilling holes to match the holes where the pins retained the original liner and inserting a couple of 10-32 bolts with nylock nuts.

I think it looks much better than the original tail section, but I would have been happy to pay a few dollars more to have a bit more thought put into the design.

 

[Luke]

By the way - willing to bet you'll like how it looks when you are done. It's just that with a bit more thought they could have had a home run, but they settled for a double.

 

[pgkool]

Got any pics of the yoishi one?

 

[Sluggoserver]

Been away for a few days so just now saw your helpful contribution Luke. Thanks, that will help a lot.

 

[cgherrington3]

I put my yoshi tail on this weekend. Way to many pieces. I had some parts leftover.

 

[Neon]

installed mine today it was a pain in the arse to do but the end result is good.
Heads up for any aussies planning to get this the aus number plates don't fit in the yoshi frame it was no biggy for me cause i had another one anyway.

 

[Invader28]

Here's the other thing I did with Luke's installation suggestions. I enlaged the original holes to add plugs because the latch mounting bolts were pushing on the plate.

 

[RichardC300]

Here's the other thing I did with Luke's installation suggestions. I enlaged the original holes to add plugs because the latch mounting bolts were pushing on the plate.

Did anybody else have a gap on the bottom plate along the edge where Invader added plugs? It seems like my whole kit is a few millimeters lower than it should be, and I can't figure out why.